14 Comments
User's avatar
Tom Grlla's avatar

Forgive me if this has already been said, but is Fine Dining perhaps more about the formality of the restaurant, rather than about the food? I think that modern life has made most people more informal - dress codes are very different/non-existent, and there was that 'moment' when I think it was Marcus Wareing got rid of his tablecloths. That's my KISS view anyway!

Expand full comment
Andy Lynes's avatar

I'm not sure to be honest. You've got somewhere like Wilderness in Birmingham where they serve a long tasting menu and they take the food and wine very seriously but the place is painted black like a teenagers bedroom and they play rock music really loud. I'd still say that's fine dinning because it's a gastronomic experience, but the surroundings are casual and more like a nightclub than a The Ritz. But there are still places, like The Latymer at Pennyhill Park to give an example of somewhere where I've been recently, that are instantly recognisable as a more 'traditional' formal fine dining experience - if there was someone playing the harp in the corner at The Latymer you wouldn't be surprised - even though the food is very modern. I think fine dining is always about refinement, but that can be expressed in different ways.

Expand full comment
Tom Grlla's avatar

Yes, I think the more one thinks about it, the more ‘fine dining’ is fundamentally quite non-specific, so makes it hard to pin down! And makes it ultimately very subjective and personal. Wilderness sounds fascinating (though my hearing’s going, so probably not great for me!) but I personally I don’t think I’d call it fine dining, though I could absolutely understand why another person would.

Expand full comment
Sue Quinn's avatar

Really interesting (although I do wish you wouldn’t lose sleep over Tim Hayward’s articles!). I read his series with interest because he can have a great turn of phrase, but also bafflement - I have no idea what point he was making. it’s reassuring you didn’t either.

Expand full comment
Andy Lynes's avatar

Thanks for reading Sue, I really appreciate it. Tim can be a dazzling wordsmith I agree but I just think he bit off a bit more than he could chew with this series. Bafflement is the perfect word. I really felt I must have been missing something and not following the argument properly until I realised it was properly argued.

Expand full comment
🍒 🍋 Nic Miller 🍋🍒's avatar

That series had the feel of an older man shouting at pigeon breasts

Expand full comment
Andy Lynes's avatar

Oh my God, that's perfect.

Expand full comment
Alan Munro's avatar

Worked a Summer at Chez Nico at Ninety Park Lane. Nice to see Ladenis get name checked. Remarkable place.

Expand full comment
Andy Lynes's avatar

Who was head chef - Paul Glynn?

Expand full comment
Alan Munro's avatar

Paul Rhodes.

Expand full comment
Andy Lynes's avatar

OK (sorry, my original reply should have said Paul Flynn who also worked for Nico).

Expand full comment
Stella's avatar

All I can say is that I have actually eaten at Kadeau and it was fabulous. I loved it.

Expand full comment
Andy Lynes's avatar

I don't doubt it for a second, I did say in the piece that it sounds lovely. It just struck me as a random choice for a newspaper column. He could have gone pretty much anywhere in Europe. Why not somewhere more topical?

Expand full comment
Stella's avatar

Now that is a good question. I do wonder about how any of the critics make their choices sometimes.

Expand full comment