Something for the weekend: Three recipes from chef Tom Colicchio's new cookbook plus the Cookbook Review archive of recipes and reviews is now available on Substack

Three recipes from chef Tom Colicchio's new cookbook plus the Cookbook Review archive of recipes and reviews is now available on Substack

Three recipes from chef Tom Colicchio's new cookbook Why I Cook

I was very excited to recieve a copy of New York chef Tom Colicchio’s first cookbook in 16 years. Why I Cook* is worth the wait, not just for the excellent homely recipes, of which there are three for you to try below, but because it’s a memoir of Colicchio’s life. Although it focuses mainly on his career in the professional kitchen (he was the opening chef at the legendary Manhattan restaurant Gramercy Tavern and now heads up Crafted Hospitality which runs five restaurants in New York and Las Vegas including the flagship Craft in New York’s Flatiron district), there are also some eyebrow rasising insights into his early life in the New Jersey city of Elizabeth.

If you’ve seen Colicchio on the US professional cooking competition TV show Top Chef you’ll know that he plays up to his role as a straight-laced stern and exacting head judge. So it comes as quite a surprise to discover that his family had a connections to the New Jersey mob, albeit a ‘liminal’ one, and at the age of 14 he was sharing a regular morning joint on the way to work at a local grill restaurant with his boss Don.

Despite a troubled childhood that saw him self medicate his ADHD with mescaline and acid and endure the fallout of his father’s addition to gambling, Colicchio found his vocation in cooking. He worked his way through some of the best New York restaurants of the 80s including the influentional Quilted Giraffe with chef Barry Wine and Rakel with Thomas Keller before opening Mondiran for legendary New York restaurateur Drew Nieporent of Nobu fame. Gramercy Tavern, Craft and TV fame followed. Colicchio isn’t just concerned with feeding his wealthy restaurant customers, but has been active in battling food insecurtiy in America, making the 2012 documentary A Place At the Table with his wife Lori Silverbush and founding the lobbying group Food Policy Action.

Although Colicchio is a top flight chef, his food embraces simplicity. Typical dishes at Craft include Grilled Quail with Farro and Aged Balsamic and Scallops with Shallot and Vermouth Butter. That approach is reflected in the recipes in Why I Cook; tweezers, sous vide machine and Thermomix are definately not required for the homecook’s versions of the restaurants dishes - the grilled quail is served with salsa verde and scallops come with cabbage, apples and leek.

The book is a joy to read and to cook from and I can’t recommend it highly enough. I’m hoping to be able to bring you an interview with Colicchio (fingers crossed, he’s a busy man), but in the meantime, here are a sample of recipes from Why I Cook. Happy weekend cooking.

If you enjoy this post can you please do me a big favour and hit the like button, give me a comment and share it as widely as you can. I’d really appreciate it. Thanks in advance.

Sunday Gravy with Meatballs and Braciole

Every Sunday my mother made us Sunday Gravy, a hearty meat-filled tomato ragu. Every family I knew had its own version, which like this one changed through the generations. For instance, my mother didn’t use ricotta in her meatballs, but I do. After church, my brothers and I would crowd into the kitchen as my mom fried the meatballs and gave us a couple before they went into the pot of tomatoes, as a snack. Later that evening, the entire family would assemble for a dinner of meatballs, gravy (never “sauce”), and macaroni, which is what we called pasta. Call it whatever you want, but this recipe works best with a dried macaroni shape, such as a ziti or rigatoni, which can stand up to the hearty gravy. You can add pork shoulder with the bone still on to reinforce the gravy. But if you really like braciole, add more braciole.

Serves 6 to 8/makes 12 meatballs and 4 braciole

Meatballs

1 pound ground beef

1 pound ground pork

Kosher salt

1/2 cup freshly grated pecorino cheese

1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

6 garlic cloves, chopped

1/2 pound ricotta cheese

Freshly ground black pepper

4 large eggs, whisked

1/2 cup chopped fresh parsley

5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Tomato Sauce

Two 28-ounce cans peeled whole tomatoes, hand-crushed

Two 28-ounce cans crushed tomatoes 

Kosher salt

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 to 3 pounds sweet Italian sausage, depending on how many you’re serving

Braciole

1 cup chopped fresh parsley

1/4 cup fresh bread crumbs

2 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan or pecorino cheese

3 garlic cloves, chopped

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 pound flank steak, cut into 4 pieces, each pounded to 1/4 to ⅛ inch thick (see Note) 

To Finish

1/2 cup red wine

3 sprigs fresh basil (or fresh tomato leaves)

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 pounds rigatoni or pasta shape of choice 

Freshly grated pecorino cheese, for serving

Make the meatballs: In a large bowl, combine the ground beef and pork and season liberally with salt. Add the pecorino, Parmesan, and garlic and mix everything together (I use my hands to do this). Add the ricotta and mix again. Season with LOTS of pepper. Mix together again. Using your hands or a large wooden spoon, mix the eggs and parsley into the meat mixture.

Check for seasoning (this step isn’t required, but it’s helpful): In a small skillet, heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil over medium heat. Make a 1-inch meatball and place it in the pan. Brown the meatball on all sides until cooked through, about 5 minutes. Let cool slightly, then taste and adjust the seasoning to the meat mixture as needed.

When you’re pleased with the seasoning, form the mixture into 12 roughly 2-inch meatballs. You can place the meatballs on a sheet of parchment as you roll them.

Working in batches, pour 2 tablespoons of the olive oil into a heavy-bottomed skillet and place it over medium-low heat. When the oil is hot, add half the meatballs and brown them on all sides, 10 to 12 minutes total. Repeat with the remaining meatballs and the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil.

Make the tomato sauce: Pour all the tomatoes into a large Dutch oven (or other large pot) that will ultimately be able to hold all the sauce, meatballs, sausages, and braciole. Add 1 cup water to one of the tomato cans and swirl out any remaining juices. Then use the same water for the remaining cans, and add that liquid to the pot as well. Season the tomatoes with salt. Bring to a low simmer over low heat, then add the browned meatballs to the tomato sauce.

Wipe the skillet clean and return to medium heat. Pour in the oil, add the sausages, and brown on all sides, 7 to 10 minutes. Once browned, add the sausages to the tomato sauce. (You might need to cut your sausage into thirds to fit it into the pot.)

Make the braciole: On a wooden cutting board, place the parsley, bread crumbs, Parmesan, and garlic. Season generously with salt and pepper. Pour 2 tablespoons of the olive oil over everything. Use a knife to chop the parsley and garlic and scrape everything together to make a paste.

Lay the meat flat on a clean work surface. Spread 1 to 2 tablespoons of the parsley/bread crumb mixture over each piece of meat. Roll up the meat and tie closed with butcher’s twine placed about 1 inch apart.

In a different pan (or clean the pan you browned the sausages in), heat the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil over medium heat. Add the braciole and brown on all sides, 7 to 10 minutes. Transfer the browned braciole to the tomato sauce.

To finish: At this point, the sauce should be bubbling slowly over low heat. Add the red wine and basil and give it a stir. Let the sauce and meat cook together slowly for 3 to 4 hours. Use a large wooden spoon to occasionally stir the pot to make sure the bottom is not burning. Season with more salt and pepper as needed.

About 30 minutes before you’re ready to eat, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the pasta and cook to al dente according to the package directions. 

Drain the pasta and return it to the pot over low heat. Add some sauce to keep it from sticking. Your pasta shouldn’t be oversauced. Let the pasta and sauce cook gently over low heat to coat the pasta fully with the sauce.

Serve at the table with extra gravy and a bowl of the sausage, meatballs, and braciole alongside. Have some freshly grated pecorino on the table, too.

Note: Ask your butcher to cut and pound the flank steak for you.

Storage:Extra sauce and meat can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 4 days. It’ll keep frozen (without pasta) for 4 to 6 months.

My (Latest) One-Pot Roast Chicken

Every cook has a roast chicken recipe, and this is mine. Sometimes. The truth is that this recipe is ever changing, depending on what’s in season or what I have in the fridge. In the summer, I might use zucchini, sun-dried tomatoes (or roasted fresh ones), or Japanese eggplant. In the winter, I might use butternut squash or apple or nearly any other firm vegetable. (Soft ones get too mushy.) Regarding the chicken, it’s important that the bird be dry before going into the pan. If you have time, place the chicken on a sheet pan skin-side up and refrigerate uncovered for at least a couple of hours (or even better, overnight). This will help dry out the bird, which will result in crispier skin.

Serves 4 or 5

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 whole chicken (3½ to 4 pounds), cut into 8 pieces (2 thighs, 2 drumsticks, and 2 breasts cut in half) and patted dry

Kosher salt 

5 or 6 small Yukon Gold potatoes, halved

1 large fennel bulb, outer layer discarded, cored, and cut into ¾-inch wedges

1 red onion, cut into ¾-inch wedges

Freshly ground black pepper 

3 Jimmy Nardello peppers, or 1 large red bell pepper, sliced

½ teaspoon fennel seeds

10 to 12 sprigs fresh thyme, plus more (optional) for garnish

2 sprigs fresh rosemary, plus more (optional) for garnish 

1 large leek, white and light-green parts only, halved lengthwise and cut crosswise into 2-inch lengths

2 small lemons, thinly sliced

2 garlic cloves, sliced, plus 1 whole head, halved horizontally

2 tablespoons sherry vinegar

Preheat the oven to 400°F.

In a large Dutch oven, heat the olive oil over medium heat until shimmering. The pan does not have to be screaming hot.

Make sure the chicken is dry. Season the chicken generously with salt and add the dark meat pieces to the Dutch oven in a single layer skin-side down. Do not put in the smaller breast pieces first as they’ll cook faster; add them a few minutes later. (If your pan isn’t large enough to fit all the chicken in a single layer, you can brown the chicken in batches.) 

Then leave them alone. Brown the chicken on all sides; try not to check it too often, but don’t let it burn. Once browned, turn the pieces over to the other side. At this point, the chicken does not need to be fully cooked through. The whole process should take between 20 and 25 minutes. Remove the chicken from the pan and transfer the pieces to a plate.

Add the potatoes to the pan, followed by the fennel and onion, being careful not to overcrowd the pan too quickly. Season with salt and black pepper as you go. Add the Nardello peppers and fennel seeds. Gently toss the vegetables with a wooden spoon, adding ¼ cup water if necessary to deglaze the pan. Add the thyme and rosemary. 

On the stovetop, pan-roast until the vegetables are softened and browned, 15 to 20 minutes. 

Add the leeks and mix everything together. Season again with salt and black pepper. Stir in the lemon slices, sliced garlic, garlic head, and vinegar. Cook for 2 to 4 additional minutes on the stovetop as the vegetables just start to braise.

Place the chicken pieces, skin-side up, on top of the vegetables and transfer to the oven. Roast until the chicken is golden brown and cooked through, 15 to 20 minutes. 

Season with salt and black pepper, garnish with fresh herbs, if desired, and serve.

Eat Your Greens Pasta

This leafy greens pasta is made with kale, spigarello, and Swiss chard. But it could be a leafy greens pasta with kale or spigarello or Swiss chard . . . or whatever other leafy greens you can get. Or you might not include the pasta at all. Take away the pasta and this could be, on its own, a side dish for a roast meat or a fish. Add some beans to this and you get pasta fagioli. Add some broth to the beans and you have a hearty soup. Learn to move your ingredients around and vary the proportions. The possibilities are endless. This recipe is a call to improvise with the ingredients you have and to recognize how versatile they are.

Serves 4

Kosher salt

7 to 8 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

10 ounces guanciale, chopped

1 small red onion, halved and sliced 

1 small fennel bulb, halved, cored, and chopped 

Freshly ground black pepper

2 garlic cloves, minced 

1 bunch lacinato kale, tough stems removed and leaves roughly chopped 

1 bunch spigarello, tough stems removed and leaves roughly chopped 

1 bunch green Swiss chard, tough stems removed and leaves roughly chopped 

1 pound paccheri pasta or any pasta shape you want

½ cup freshly grated pecorino cheese

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. While the water is boiling, prepare the vegetables.

In a large pot, warm 4 tablespoons of the olive oil over medium heat. Add the guanciale, onion, and fennel. Mix together and season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the fennel and onion are soft and translucent, roughly 4 to 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds.

Start adding the kale, spigarello, and Swiss chard in batches. The greens will wilt down as they cook, allowing you to add more to the pan. Mix the greens together with the onion as you go. Cook the greens until fully wilted, 4 to 5 minutes. Check the seasoning, adding salt if necessary.

Add the pasta to the boiling water and cook until al dente according to the package directions. Reserving 1 cup of the pasta water, drain the pasta.

Add the cooked pasta to the pot with the greens. Combine and toss with 1/3 cup of the reserved pasta water, the remaining 3 to 4 tablespoons olive oil, and grated pecorino until the sauce becomes creamy. Season generously with pepper and salt to taste. Serve.

Storage: This pasta will keep in the fridge for 1 or 2 days.

Excerpted from Why I Cook by Tom Colicchio (Artisan Books). Copyright © 2024.
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Cookbook Review archive of recipes and reviews is now available on my Substack

You may not have realised that I recently imported hundreds of posts from cookbookreview.blog, a labour of love I’ve been working on for the last five years or so. I’m maintaining the blog as it has a strong following and many readers discover it through Google searches so I don’t want to completely shut it down, but I will increasingly be posting recipes and reviews here first.

There are about 350 cookbookreview.blog posts on Substack so I hope you’ll explore what’s there (they are searchable), but to get you started, here are the all-time top 10 most popular cookbookreview.blog posts.

The pear almondine recipe has got large numbers of views on a daily basis since I first posted it in 2021 and I’m not quite sure why. It’s a great recipe, but then there are lots of great recipes on the site. I guess everyone loves Raymond. My review of Jack Monroe’s most recent (last?) cookbook Thrifty Kitchen sort of went a bit viral when it appeared in January 2023 and continues to attract attention. If you read it you’ll see why.

Cookbook Review’s Top 10 most popular posts of all time

Recipe: Pear almondine by Raymond Blanc - click here to read

Review: Thrifty Kitchen by Jack Monroe - click here to read

Recipe: Slow-roasted shoulder of lamb, harissa by Raymond Blanc - click here to read

Recipe: Sticky Toffee Pudding by Francis Coulson - click here to read

Recipe: Monkfish Cooked in the Style of Lamb by Michel Roux Jr - click here to read

Recipe: Classic puff pastry by Calum Franklin - click here to read

Review: Vegan JapanEasy by Tim Anderson - click here to read

Recipe: Harissa chicken gyros by Nathan Anthony (Bored of Lunch) - click here to read

Recipe: One-pot meatballs with tomato sauce and orzo by Rick Stein - click here to read

Review: The Food of Sichuan by Fuchsia Dunlop - click here to read