Smashed at the Weekend #7
somewhere to go, something to buy, something to read, something to cook,
Somewhere to go
The Great Bustard, Wiltshire
I’ll be honest, when I was invited to stay and dine at The Great Bustard I thought it would be a nice night away at a very smart-looking rural gastropub with rooms. The menu looked appealing in that rural gastropub sort of way and its location meant we could pop into nearby Salisbury, do some sightseeing and make a bit of a weekend of it. And so that’s what we did, although we got quite a bit more than we bargained for.
For an atheist and an agnostic, my wife and I seem to spend an awful lot of time wandering around cathedrals (current fav: Wells Cathedral). We always take the guided tour if there is one, otherwise, you’re just staring at a lot of stone and glass and graves and thinking ‘this is impressive’ but not getting much else out of it. The tour at Salisbury Cathedral was free (although it costs £12 to get in. Can’t God keep his own house in order?), informative and fun in a very gentle Christian sort of way. I’d recommend it if you’re that way inclined.
As card-carrying Labour supporters, we also took the chance to look round the nearby grade II listed Arundells, the former home of Conservative Prime Minister Edward Heath. Despite his misguided political leanings, Heath was an impressive man with a distinguished career in the military, as well as being a notable yachtsman, musician, conductor and author. He also led Britain into the European Union so he couldn’t be all bad, despite those very scurrilous rumours about him (have you heard them? If not, you really, really don’t want to know). As you’ll see from the picture above, the gardens are lovely with a great view of the cathedral spire.
an undisclosed sum had been spent over a three-year period of renovation and building and that a modern extension to the 19th-century inn now housed a restaurant that wouldn’t look out of place in Mayfair
Once you are out of Sailsbruy’s idyllic Cathedral Close, the town centre doesn’t really hold much appeal (to put it mildly) so we soon made the fifteen-minute drive to the tiny village of Great Durnford where The Great Bustard has recently opened on the site of what was The Black Horse. What I knew before we arrived was that an undisclosed sum had been spent over a three-year period of renovation and building and that a modern extension to the 19th-century inn now housed a restaurant that wouldn’t look out of place in Mayfair. In addition, there was a new and very smart timber-clad accommodation block with eight Scandi-chic rooms which is where we enjoyed a comfortable and peaceful stay (there are two further rooms in the pub itself).
What I didn’t know about The Great Bustard was that Jordan Taylor was making his debut there as head chef after working in some of the best restaurants in the country including three years at Restaurant Gordon Ramsay as well as time at Moor Hall, House of Tides and The Pass at South Lodge Hotel. I’d obviously skimmed the sample menu I’d been sent and focused on the battered cod and chips, selection of steaks and burger and not enough on the line caught sea bass with carrots, braised fennel and vadouvan veloute because what we ate shocked me (it didn’t, but that’s the sort of thing you have to say to get any traction at all in these days of clickbait. Look, I’ve even made it the pull quote. I’ll make 2k subscribers yet, you just see if I don’t).
What we ate shocked me.
It’s surprising we managed to eat anything because, once I’d settled into a wingback chair in the new and shiny yet cosy bar, complete with beams and an open fireplace, I didn’t want to move. I could have sat there all night as long as they kept the Guinness flowing which they did (service led by general manager Matheus Sanches was impeccable throughout our stay). It also didn’t hurt that a local was sat at the next table with a couple of West Highland White Terriers who were starved for attention.
We eventually managed to drag ourselves away from the friendly mutts and go through for dinner. From our table at the back of the room, we were afforded a good view of the kitchen through its picture window. I instantly had a good feeling. The chefs were moving at pace and with intention in the way brigades do in all the best restaurants.
Our first bite might sound less than fine dining - ‘bread and butter pudding, Spenwood, Roscoff’ - but wait to you hear the process that goes into making the addictive snacks. In an interview for a piece in The Caterer, Taylor told me that he infuses cream overnight with shallots, thyme, garlic, black pepper, coriander, cloves, cinnamon, star anise and Spenwood cheese to make an egg custard. He then layers bloomer loaf from Orchard Bay Bakery in Dorset with the custard and fresh thyme, soaks it overnight, presses it then bakes it in the oven just as you would with a normal bread and butter pudding. It’s then portioned, pan-fried and topped with Roscoff onions that are slowly cooked all day, flamed with brandy and blended into a puree, baby pickled onions, grated Spenwood and truffle, when it’s in season.
The rest of the menu is similarly labour intensive, not it seemed to me for the purpose of being fancy pants and impressive, although the food was often those things (in a good way), but simply to impart maximum flavour. Taylor does exceptional things with game from the Great Durnford Estate on which the Bustard stands. A pressed and steamed estate game terrine with house chutney (£11.50) was as elegant as it was delicious with layers of brined pigeon, pheasant and partridge breasts (and a layer of dried apricots) encased in a chicken farce with fermented cep powder, more dried apricots, and tarragon. It was served with more estate produce in the form of a spiced apple and apricot chutney. A cabbage-wrapped loin of estate hare with celeriac fondant, Hen of the Woods, cep and baked yeast was equally impressive with a rich red wine sauce enlivened by foraged elderberry capers (of course Taylor forages on the estate, you try and stop him) and some fermented mushroom juice. Pub grub? I don’t think so.
I won’t walk you through everything we ate, suffice to say that it was all bloody lovely including a sophisticated braised beef ravioli with beef consommé, smoked eel and bone marrow made with beef from the delightfully named Springbottom Farm that’s just a few miles from the pub. Just because it’s local produce doesn’t necessarily make it any good, but I took some of the beef short ribs home (they sell the meat in the cute little farm shop at the the back of the pub’s terrace and garden) and they braised beautifully in some Guinness (this newsletter is not sponsored by Guinness, although I’d be a happy man if it was).
Jordan Taylor is a name to watch
I’m glad to report that the standards didn’t drop one bit at breakfast. I ate what were probably the best scrambled eggs I’ve ever had in a hotel/pub, served on a homemade crumpet and finished with more of that Spenwood cheese, and the missus had duck hash with a fried egg and pickled walnut ketchup.
Every aspect of The Great Bustard impressed, from service to design (OK, the rooms could probably do with a bit more decoration to lend them a little more character) and atmosphere. But what really made a big impression was the food. I think Jordan Taylor is a name to watch. The 2025 Michelin Awards are probably a little too soon for the Bustard which only opened in October, but don’t worry about what the French guys think, get yourself down (or up) to Wiltshire, I promise you won’t regret it.
The Details
Rooms from £200 including breakfast
The Great Bustard, Great Durnford, Salisbury, SP4 6AY.
01722 703582, thegreatbustard.uk
(Smashed stayed as guests of The Great Bustard)
Something to cook
Pakistani lamb chops by Dave Pynt
The latest publication from Fool Agency, founded by Lotta and Per-Anders Jörgensen is the cookbook of celebrated Singapore restaurant Burnt Ends where Australian-born chef Dave Pynt cooks his very personal version of modern BBQ. Pynt is the Chef-Owner of Burnt Ends Hospitality Group, which includes the Michelin-starred Burnt Ends and Meatsmith in Singapore and Jakarta, as well as The Ledge by Dave Pynt in the Maldives. A formative experience at Asador Etxebarri in Spain influenced his approach that emphasises cooking with wood. The restaurant has received numerous accolades, including the Asia's 50 Best Restaurants Chef's Choice Award in 2017 and currently ranks #15 on the 2024 San Pellegrino Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants List.
Here’s what the publishers say about the book:
‘In this captivating work, Chef Pynt celebrates the art of cooking with fire, coals, and smoke. “Modern barbecue means anything goes — no tradition, no history, no borders. We cook whatever we want as long as it’s tasty.” From signature dishes to innovative techniques, he unveils the secrets behind his bold flavours and creative cooking style, providing inspiration for both seasoned grill masters and home cooks eager to explore the magic of live-fire cooking.
However, this book isn’t solely about food; it’s also about the people, stories, and experiences that make Burnt Ends so special. Through Chef Pynt’s narrative, in collaboration with Australian food and travel writer Max Veenhuyzen, readers will embark on a journey through his personal experiences — from early inspirations and culinary adventures to the creation and evolution of one of the world’s top restaurants. Burnt Ends is built on the philosophy that people are the most valuable assets in hospitality, and Chef Pynt honours the team behind the scenes — from the kitchen crew and front-of-house staff to the architects and financiers who helped realise his vision.
Featuring stunning photography by Per-Anders Jörgensen, the book captures the vibrant energy of the restaurant, taking readers behind the scenes into the heart of Burnt Ends. Each page pulses with the lively atmosphere of the open kitchen, the heat of the flames, and the artistry behind every plate.
For food lovers, BBQ aficionados, and anyone fascinated by the world of hospitality, the Burnt Ends cookbook is a must-have. It’s not just a book about a restaurant — it’s a celebration of food, fire, and the power of community that brings it all together. Dive into Chef Dave Pynt’s world and discover what makes Burnt Ends such a unique and unforgettable experience.’
Pakistani lamb chops
8 PORTIONS
SPICE PASTE
50g fresh ginger, peeled and finely sliced
50g fresh garlic, peeled and finely sliced
50g papaya, skin on, sliced
LAMB YOGHURT MARINADE
240g plain Greek yoghurt
30g fresh lemon juice
24g fresh mint, chopped
12g fine salt
24g garam masala
6g chilli powder
12g ground cumin
6g ground dried red chilli
12g Colman’s mustard powder
LAMB16 lamb cutlets
TO FINISH 1 PORTION
2 marinated lamb cutlets
15g spice paste
15g butter, cold
Day 1. Mix all the spice paste ingredients together. Marinate the lamb cutlets in this for 40 minutes. For the yoghurt marinade, mix the yoghurt, lemon juice, mint and salt together. Toast the garam masala, chilli, cumin and dried chilli, then mix with the mustard powder and add to the yoghurt mix. Add this mixture to the cutlets and their marinade and leave for at least 24 hours, refrigerated.
Day 2. Remove the lamb from the marinade and set aside 15g of marinade per portion to be served. Cook the lamb cutlets over a hard-grill, ensuring both sides are well charred, the internal temperature reaches 50ºC and the meat has heaps of colour. To plate 1 portion: place 2 cutlets on a serving plate. Put 15g of the retained marinade in a small saucepan with 15g of cold butter, warm gently and stir to emulsify. Spoon over the lamb cutlets and serve immediately.
Extracted from Burnt Ends by Dave Pynt with Max Veenhuyzen.
Photography By Per-Anders Jörgensen, illustrations Ryan Inzana & Ien Levin.
$95.00 SGD
Order from burntends.com.sg
Something for Christmas
Christmas food and drink gift ideas
Corrigan’s Christmas Day Hamper
Chef Richard Corrigan's Christmas Day hamper includes everything you need to make the big day even more special with no effort required. The hamper includes:
Bentley’s Signature Soda Bread and Lincolnshire Poacher butter
Corrigan’s Game Terrine
A Smoked Salmon Blini kit including Horseradish Cream
Colston Bassett Stilton and Truffle Honey
Richard’s Hand-Made Mince Pies
£70 plus delivery from dishpatch.co.uk
Poon’s London Christmas Hamper
This beautifully designed hamper comes from Poon’s London a ‘heritage food and food-led lifestyle brand’. It’s roots are in the London restaurant scene of the 1970s when Bill and Cecilia Poon opened Poon’s restaurants in Lisle Street and Covent Garden that attracted the glitterati including Mick Jagger to Sean Connery.
Daughter Amy revived the brand in 2018 with various pop-up events and is now looking for a permanent restaurant site. In the meantime, you can enjoy Poon’s products at home. The hamper includes the full range of Poon’s products including Poon’s WO Sauce - a twist on traditional XO sauce, Extraordinary Chilli Oil, Wind-dried Bacon and Wind-dried Pork and Duck Liver Sausage (the latter two products are made from family recipes developed by Amy's grandfather and were both Great Taste Awards 2024 award winners).
£70 available online at poons-pantry.com where you can also browse the full range of Poons products, and at Poon’s London, Arch 18, Discovery Estate, Spa Terminus, St James’s Road, London, SE16 4RA
Moor Hall limited edition Pecan, Maple Syrup and Alsace Bacon Christmas Puddings
Perk up your Christmas Day appetite with a handmade Xmas pud quite unlike any other. Double Michelin-starred chef Mark Birchall and his team at Moor Hall restaurant with rooms in Lancashire have added an umami hit to the festive classic that have been matured for 18 months with some Alsace bacon. The beautifully wrapped and presented pud also includes oranges, nutmeg, pecans, maple, and Pedro Ximénez sherry.
Each purchase includes a donation to local charity Sandy Park Café, a not-for-profit social enterprise helping young students with special needs and disabilities (SEND) from Sandfield Park School in Liverpool to gain valuable work experience.
£65 (serves 6-8) available for click and collect or nationwide delivery from moorhall.com
Made in Oldstead Christmas Hampers and Gifts
Michelin-starred chef Tommy Banks of the Swan in Oldstead has a range of Christmas hampers and gifts available for order from his Made in Olsdstead online store. The Oldstead Festive Hamper (£200) includes Beer & Brown Sugar Glazed Ham, Oldstead Mincemeat from Banks’ Great British Menu-winning recipe, and Beetroot & Beef Fat Brownies.
Available from madeinoldstead.co.uk
Lympston Manor Estate Wines
Six years ago, chef and owner of Michelin-starred Lympton Manor country house hotel Michael Caines planted 17,500 vines on the manor’s estate. Now, in partnership with Devon’s Lyme Bay Winery he produces a range of still and sparkling wines based around the Champagne grape varieties of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Meunier perfect for a festive celebration. The range includes:
Lympstone Manor Estate, 2020, Triassic Pinot Noir, £65 per bottle
Lympstone Manor Estate, Classic Cuvée 2020, £60 per bottle
Lympstone Manor Estate, Rosé, vintage 2022, £30per bottle
Lympstone Manor Estate, Edwards Chardonnay 2022
Lympstone Manor Estate, Mixed Box of Three, £155 (£167 with a gift box)
Lympstone Manor Estate, Mixed Box of Six, £310
In addition, Lympstone Manor Estate also has it’s own Premium Gin (£40 per bottle) and Eau de Vie de Marc (£29 per bottle).
Available from Lympstone Manor Estate shop