Who is Sarah Johnson?
Sarah Johnson is an American-born pastry chef who trained under Alice Waters at Chez Panisse, before working at Skye Gyngell’s acclaimed Spring restaurant in London, and Heckfield Place in Hampshire. Johnson is known for her passion for using seasonal, sustainable ingredients, transforming them into innovative desserts and cakes that celebrate the best of what nature has to offer. Followers are treated to a collection of her stunning creations, and an inside glimpse of her farm-to-table approach to cooking, on her social media account @sarahjohnsoncooks. Fruitful is her debut cookbook.
What is Fruitful’s USP?
Described by Darina Allen as ‘a delicious celebration of ripe and seasonal produce’, Fruitful offers over 80 sweet and savoury recipes that showcase fruit in all its glory. Accompanying the recipes are a selection of pairing recommendations, flavour charts, interviews with regenerative farmers from around the world, and expert advice on mastering key techniques to help you make the most out of your produce.
What will I love?
The thought and detail that has gone into putting this book together shines through. Some books feel rather rushed, but this one is almost crafted like a work of art. The recipes are inventive and elegant, with almost all accompanied by stunning photographs which leave you hoping you have the ingredients so you can start cooking straight away.
Johnson is generous with her knowledge, sharing tips and tricks in the gentle manner of a friend leading you on a foodie journey. You can’t help but be inspired by page after page of sweet and savoury ideas that showcase the sheer versatility of fruit. Fruitful feels so much more than a cookbook, it is a joyous celebration of fruit and farming that will deepen your knowledge and broaden your culinary horizons.
Is it good bedtime reading?
Alongside the main introduction which details Johnson’s culinary journey and philosophy, each chapter and recipe also includes its own introduction. There are several pages dedicated to a detailed explanation of the various ‘Techniques for Cooking with Fruit’, breakout boxes on everything from how to curate a seasonal fruit bowl no matter what the time of year, to favourite flavour combinations. Weaved throughout the book are interviews with various producers who share fascinating insights into their work.
Will I have trouble finding the ingredients?
Not really. Johnson offers variations throughout the book so you can adjust the recipes depending on the season and/or what you already have available. For example, stracciatella features in the ‘Pizza with Peaches, Stracciatella, Rocket and Pesto’, but burrata and mozzarella are suggested alternatives. The odd recipe uses ingredients like coconut flour (‘Coconut Rum Cake with Peaches in Syrup’) and peach leaves (Vin de Pêche’), but the vast majority rely on ingredients that aren’t too tricky to source.
How easy are the recipes to follow?
There are a variety of simple and more complex recipes. Fuss-free ideas like ‘Blackcurrant Jelly’ and ‘Strawberry Sorbet’ sit alongside more involved recipes like the beautiful ‘Apple, Prune and Armagnac Tart’. All are explained in a detailed yet accessible manner, clearly outlining the steps, with photos offering additional guidance where necessary.
Stand-out recipes?
You could be forgiven for thinking that the stand-out recipes would all be sweet, but the savoury options are equally impressive. The ‘Goats Cheese Soufflés with Spring Herb Salad and Roasted Cherries’ are inspired, while the ‘North African Lamb with Plums’ is a deliciously sweet, sticky and subtly spiced slow-cooked dish that is perfect for impressing loved ones. It is tricky to select just a few ‘stand-out’ sweet options, but the indulgent ‘Little Chocolate Pots with Roasted Cherries and Kirsch Cream’, zesty ‘Lemon Curd Tart’ and sophisticated ‘Apple, Prune and Armagnac Tart’ are not to be missed.
How often will I cook from this book?
This isn’t the kind of cookbook you will make something from every day of the week, but there is much to learn from the various charts and tables which will influence your cooking. Recipes cover everything from cakes, ice cream and jam to slow-roast meats, seasonal salads and sustainable fish. There is plenty of variety too, whether you want a teatime treat (‘Polenta Olive Oil Muffins with Blackberries’), a show stopping tart (‘Chocolate Tart with Marsala Sabayon and Toasted Hazelnuts’ or a simple supper (‘Lemony Chicken Piccata’).
Any negatives?
Whilst not prohibitively extravagant, a few of the recipes are quite expensive to make due to the need to purchase certain liqueurs. Some recipes rely on a rather large number of eggs – ‘Little Chocolate Pots with Roasted Cherries and Kirsch Cream’ uses 8 yolks and ‘Lemon Curd Tart’ calls for 8 whole eggs and 12 yolks. To her credit, Johnson acknowledges that the latter may seem excessive, but assures us they are necessary. Conscious of avoiding waste, she recommends saving the whites for her ‘Lemon Meringue Pie’ or ‘Meringues’ later in the book (as a side note, I would also heartily encourage you to try making your own ricciarelli, a deliciously soft Tuscan treat half-way between a macaron and an amaretti).
Should I buy the book?
Yes. This is a beautiful book which will inspire you to step outside of your comfort zone and cook more confidently, creatively and sustainably with seasonal fruit.
Cuisine: Seasonal British with Italian and French influences
Suitable for: Foodies and keen cooks who want to be more adventurous, and sustainable, with their cooking
Great for fans of: Alice Walters, Darina Allen and Skye Gygnell
Cookbook review rating: Five stars
Buy this book: Fruitful: Sweet and Savoury Fruit Recipes Inspired by Farms, Orchards and Gardens
£30.00, Kyle Books
Cook the Book:
Chocolate Tart with Marsala Sabayon and Toasted Hazelnuts
Lemon Drizzle Cake
North African Lamb with Plums
This review was written by Freelance Food Writer and Recipe Developer Sophie Knox Richmond. Follow her on Instagram on @sophie_kr_food.